Back from Foligno. The town is a sprawling post-industrial kind of place , a bit like Buffalo or one of those upstate places in New York along the Hudson. The differences are that 1) you can get a really good cup of coffee 2) the town has a 11th century cathedral and 3) you won't hear English spoken anywhere. We like Foligno . It's clearly seen better days but the municipality is doing everything it can to stop decline by investing in the towns infrastructure. From a tourists point of view Foligno sports a cathedral which has a romanesque doorway which incorporates the only known example from the period of the islamic crescent moon symbol and some rather good late 1930's Mussolini era architecture.
Most importantly there is Villa Roncalli. a simply excellent restaurant run by a lady chef whose husband runs Vissani outside Orvieto on Lake Corbara-reportedly one of Italy's top three restaurants.Villa Roncalli has a stunning wine list with a low markup and a menu that chanes every day . A meal in Villa Roncalli will cost you 50 Euros a head all in whereas Vissani will probably set you back three or four time that by the time a decent bottle of wine is included.With the pound hitting near parity with the Euro our trips to Vissani are likely to be limited!